The Average Life Span of a Water Dragon is 15-20 years

Vivariums/Terrariums:
The Minimum size for a single adult water dragon is 48x24x24, or for a pair it should be at least 48x36X24 but bigger is always better. A glass terrarium with good ventilation is better apposed to a wooden vivarium as it holds humidity better. Water Dragons love to climb so make sure there is plenty of environmental enrichment in the terrarium such as thick vines and branches. Artificial plants are another good idea so the lizard has somewhere to hide in. A large water bowl or litter tray can be useful as they love to splash around in water.

Substrate can be newspaper, orchid bark, peat moss, a mixture of sand and soil, or reptile carpets (but beware of loose threads that can snag dragon toes).

Temperature/Humidity:
Water Dragons require a day time temperature of 90f, with a basking temperature of 110f-115f. This can be achieved by using a spot bulb or ceramic heater, both of which need to be protected by a bulb guard so as not to burn the lizard. All heating should be positioned at one end of the vivarium,  if you do not have somewhere for your animal to cool down it will eventually die of heat exhaustion, due to not being able to regulate their own body temperature. The overall temperature can be controlled by a thermostat which will keep the tank at a constant temperature. You will need to maintain the humidity in your enclosure at approx. 80%. this can be achieved by misting the enclosure a couple of times a day. A Thermometer and humidity gauge can be used to keep the temperature/ humidity in check.

Lighting:
All diurnal lizards require UV light from the sun, in order to produce vitamin d3 which they require to metabolise calcium, therefore a UVB light tube should be provided with a minimum of 5.0UVB and left on for around 12 hours a day. It should be replaced yearly even if the bulb itself still works. As the maximum range for UV is only 12inches a reflector is useful in maximising the output of the bulb.

Cleaning:
Remove faeces and uneaten food daily. Food/water bowls should be washed and dried each time fresh is put in. Vivariums should be totally cleaned out every couple of months or so with reptile-safe disinfectant

Feeding
Water dragons feeds mainly on insects, commercially produced black and brown crickets, locust, mealworm and wax-worm are readily available. Crickets and locust should be the main live- food offered whilst mealworm and wax-worm can be offered for variety. The water dragon may take some vegetation such as watercress and rocket but this is quite rare. Live foods should be offered at least every 3 days and there should always be a couple of insects in the vivarium so the lizard always has access to food. All insects fed to your lizard should be gut loaded with the appropriate food and a suitable vitamin powder such as Nurtobal should be used 3 times a week.

Water
Drinking water Should Always be freshly available. Although some wont drink standing water they will also use it to bath in.

Handling
It is important to handle your water dragon regularly to help build up a good relationship with him.

When you first get your lizard home, leave him/her to settle in for 24hours before you start trying to handle it.

As with most animals the more you handle them the friendlier they will become.

Cohabitation
If you want to house 2 water dragons together it should be approximately the same size as the one you already have. This will lessen stress and aggressive behaviours from one or the other dragons when they are introduced. Two females generally get along well, a male and a female also generally get along very well. Two males will not get along and may fight to the death.

GENERAL CARE:
Signs of a healthy Bearded Dragon:
ü      The dragon should be alert, active and not looking lethargic.
ü      The lizards eyes, nose and mouth should be clean and discharge free.
ü      Check that they Have been eating and drinking normally.
ü      Another good indication of a healthy dragon is its tail,If the tail has fat stores then the lizard is probably healthy. If the lizard’s tail is bony and has no fat stores, they probably are malnourished or even dehydrated.

 Shopping List
ü      Vivarium/Terrarium
ü      Heat Bulb
ü      UVB Bulb & starter unit
ü      Thermometer & hydrometer
ü      Thermostat
ü      water bowl/litter Tray
ü      Substrate
ü      Vitamin supplement
ü      Environmental enrichment
ü      Reptile safe disinfectant
ü      Spray bottle

Some reptiles carry a form of salmonella, but is usually contacted by ingestion. Good hygiene and washing your hands after handling or cleaning out your lizard should be good enough to prevent any risk of infection. 

 We guarantee all animals purchased are healthy and feeding unless noticed at the time of sale. As we cannot be held responsible for their husbandry requirements once they have left us, we only continue this guarantee for 24 hours after purchase. To deter impulse buying we will not give full refunds/exchanges for animals returned for non-health related problems, we reserve the right to charge up to 50% of the purchase price as a handling fee. Please note: this does not mean we will leave you high and dry! We will do our best to help whatever the circumstances.