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Leopard Geckos originate from Pakistan, Afghanistan and north western India. They are nocturnal which means they should be active mostly at night but during the day our geckos tend to be inquisitive and take a wander around their homes to see what's going on.
The Average Life span of a Leopard Gecko is 10-15 years but can live up to 20 years.
VIVARIUMS
Ideally the rule for leopard geckos is the more space the better, although you won’t need as much space for juvenile’s than you do adults. Leopard geckos can be kept in groups as long as there is only one male as they are very territorial and will fight for dominance, often to the death. Two or three adult geckos can live comfortably in a vivarium measuring around 36inch by 18inch with a height of at least 18inch if you plan to install lighting. Calci-sand and wood chip are both good to use as substrates and only need to be totally cleaned out every few months. Make sure there is plenty of environmental enrichment in the vivarium such as bark to climb in and under and moss to lie in.
LIGHTING
Leopard geckos do not need any UV light, which most other reptiles do require, but a strip light on 10-12 hours a day will illuminate the Vivarium and will promote the natural day/night cycle.
Cleaning:Remove faeces daily, if you have sand in the vivarium it is easiest to use a sieve to sort out the clean from the dirty substrate. Food and water bowls should be washed and dried each time fresh is put in. Vivariums should be totally cleaned out every couple of months or so with a pet-safe disinfectant. Leopard Geckos are insectivorous which means they are insect eaters. Provide a varied diet or things such as crickets, mealworms, locusts and wax worms.
FEEDING
Hatchlings and young geckos can be fed 4-8 food items once per day. Adults can be fed 4-10 food items of the appropriate size every 2-3 days. Geckos being nocturnal prefer to hunt their prey at night, so it is advised to place food items with your Geckos after dusk. A vitamin supplement should be sprinkled over the food a couple of times a week.
WATER: HANDLING: When you first get your lizard home, leave it to settle in for 24hours before you start trying to handle it. As with most animals the more you handle it, the friendlier it will become. COHABITATION: GENERAL CARE: The lizards eyes, nose and mouth should be clean and discharge free. Check that they have been eating and drinking normally. Another good indication of a healthy dragon is its tail. If the tail has fat stores then the lizard is proibably healthy. If the lizards tail is boney and has not fat stores, it possibly means it is malnourished and dehydrated.
Drinking water should always be freshly available. Although some won’t drink standing water they will also use it to bath in.
Males do not tend to get on together as adults and can fight normally ending in horrible consequences. Males can be kept with one or more females, the same as females can be kept together as long as the vivarium is large enough to accommodate them.
The Lizard should be alert, active and not looking lethargic.
Some reptiles carry a form of salmonella, but is usually contacted by ingestion. Good hygiene and washing your hands after handling or cleaning out your lizard should be good enough to prevent any risk of infection.
We guarantee all animals purchased are healthy and feeding unless noticed at the time of sale. As we cannot be held responsible for their husbandry requirements once they have left us, we only continue this guarantee for 24 hours after purchase. To deter impulse buying we will not give full refunds/exchanges for animals returned for non-health related problems, we reserve the right to charge up to 50% of the purchase price as a handling fee. Please note: this does not mean we will leave you high and dry! We will do our best to help whatever the circumstances
Leopard Geckos need heat to thermo-regulate, as they do not produce their own body heat internally. They need an external heat source to help them digest their food as well as regulate other bodily functions. Leopard geckos obtain their heat through their underside so the best source of heat is a heat-mat placed under either the substrate or under the tank itself. The mat needs to cover between half or 1/3 of the bottom of the enclosure. The temperature of the floor of your enclosure where the geckos bask should read between 84-88 degrees Fahrenheit.