Common Name: Boa Constrictor

Scientific Name: Boa Constrictor Imperiatus

General Information

The boa constrictor or common boa is a medium to large species of snake originating from South and Central America, across their natural range they are found in most habitats including: savannas, semi-deserts, rocky outcrops, tropical rainforests, cultivated fields and even homes. Boas have established themselves as a very popular pet for many reasons including, there docile demeanour, ease of care and tolerance of handling and the fact that they are a large but manageable snake. In captivity five to nine feet is the average size that a boa will attain, with a maximum body weight of about 40kg, males tend to be a considerably smaller than females . With the correct care boa constrictors can potentially be a very long lives pet, with individuals being known to live for over 40 years, with the average between 20 and 30 years of age.

Enclosure

When housing a boa space must be considered, a hatchling can easily be maintained in a 2 foot vivarium, but this will only be adequate for a few months as boas grow quickly reaching as much as five foot in their first year. For a single adult boa the minimum advisable size vivarium would be 4 x 2 x 2 foot with most people opting for either a 5 or 6 x 2 x 2, as with any reptile good ventilation is important.

Heat and Light

As boa’s come from a warmer climate than our own and are cold blooded they rely on their environment to control body temperature, so it is essential to provide them with additional heating. There are two main options when it comes to heating the vivarium, either the space can be heated, or the floor can be heated. In smaller vivariums we recommend floor heating, this is achieved by using a combination of a heat mat (positioned at one end of the vivarium) and a thermostat, with the warm end of the vivarium being maintained around 88-90oF, and the overall ambient between 80-85oF. In larger or taller vivariums it is more beneficial to space heat, rather than ground heat, this can be achieved by using either an infra-red bulb or ceramic heater, in combination with a thermostat, applying the same temperature gradient as required when using a heat mat. Being a nocturnal species boas have no requirement for UVB light, but do benefit from exposure to light, being equatorial the 12 hours of light and 12 hours of dark is the best option.

Substrate

There are many options available when considering substrate for a boa, beech chips or orchid bark are among the most popular. All substrates should be spot cleaned as soon as possible and completely changed monthly.

Shelter and Decor

Boa’s are nocturnal and in the wild spend a lot of time hiding underground in abandoned burrows or in hollow logs, so a peaceful retreat to sleep and hide in during the day is essential. The most important factor to consider when choosing a hide is that snakes like to feel secure, so the shelter should provide a dark and snug area to retreat to. Shelters can be as elaborate as you choose, but the most popular choices are either commercially available caves or pieces of cork bark. Boa’s also like to climb, so sturdy branches or shelves are another essential element of the enclosure.

Water and Humidity

Boas’s come from a semi-humid environment, and require a humidity level of 55-65%, this can normally be achieved by lightly spraying the vivarium a couple of times a week or providing a hide with damp moss in. Fresh water should be provided at all times, it is important that the bowl is sufficiently heavy so as not to be turned over by the snake.

Food

The diet of the boa typically consists of rodents, and in captivity they are usually fed a diet of mice, rats and rabbits. The frequency at which the snake is fed depends on the size of the prey item. Hatchling snakes are normally started on defrosted rat pups, feeding at seven day intervals, as the size of the food increases so does the intervals of feeding, with an adult boa eating every 20-28 days. As a general rule the prey size should be just wider than the thickest part of the snake, and it is important that the snake is left to digest its meal for at least two days before handling. It is important not to overfeed your boa as they can quickly become overweight and unhealthy, so feeding oversized prey items must be avoided.

Shedding

The intervals between shedding vary with the age of the snake; a growing snake will shed much more frequently than an adult. Just before each shed the colour of the snake will become dull, the eyes will go blue and milky and the belly will turn slightly pink, it is a good idea to provide a damp hide and increase the humidity during this process. A piece of cork bark in the vivarium will be of benefit at this time as it will provide an abrasive surface on which the snake can remove its old skin. Normally the snake will shed its skin in one piece, if this does not occur and skin is retained for more than a few days bathe the snake in luke warm water every day until the shed is complete.

Handling

Boa constrictors are very tolerant and can be handled daily as long as they are not allowed to get cold, and they have not recently eaten. Boa’s are potentially a large snake, and as so any animal over nine foot must be handled for both yours and the snakes safety. If you are experiencing feeding problems with your snake refrain from handling it until regular feeding is achieved.

We hope that this care sheet has been of assistance and if you have any further enquiries do not hesitate to contact us by e-mail. info@superpetsdirect.com